Spain

Spain has everything the sophisticated traveler looks for- gourmet food, colorful history, world class wine, astounding architecture, and lively cities!

I am a certified Spain Destination Specialist, and would love to help you plan your next trip to that vibrant part of the world.

Spain’s capital Madrid houses some of the finest art and architecture in Europe, with museums that rival the Louvre and the Hermitage. the intimate city of Valencia is a complex mix of old customs and radical civic design. It is home to the America’s Cup yacht races, the famous Spanish rice dish paella, and fabulous early 20th century buildings that are built next to structures from the medieval ages. Their new performing arts center rivals the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, one of the best known modern structures in the world.

Barcelona is a must—a cosmopolitan center with a unique blend of cultures, art, and beaches. With it beautiful facades, Lively central market, grand avenues, and modernist architecture; Barcelona is a city that can be explored for days.

I am passionate about this diverse country, and have designed many unique and creative itineraries for my clients from luxury family trips to memorable honeymoons. Let us plan your own flamenco lesson, sherry tasting, trip to a private art collection, or a memorable luncheon at a privately owned horse ranch.

Santiago de Compostela

The Santiago de Compostela area (province of Galicia) is a terrific and relatively untouched destination for those interested in active holidays, Spanish history, religion, gastronomy, and great scenery. That region is often compared to the American Northwest, with wild coastline, rain, and green countryside. Seldom visited by the average American tourist, it is rich in legend, ruins, beachside resorts, and culinary delights. (www.okspain.org)

Santiago is the famed end of the “pilgrim’s route,” beginning in the Pyrenees and stretching across the verdant top of “Green Spain.” This route was first traveled in the Middle Ages, but is beautifully marked for the contemporary visitor who is interested in hiking, or just meandering through the countryside. Guests can enjoy walking part of the pilgrimage through the picturesque Pyrenees Alps, or also through the famed cathedral towns of Burgos and Leon. The hiking ranges from challenging in the more mountainous Pyrenees, to gently rolling hills and fields outside of Burgos in the center of Spain. The route is well-marked with the traditional pilgrim’s cockle shell, the symbol of Saint James, usually in yellow. While there are several different routes, all roads end at Santiago!

The magnificent cathedral welcomes the visitor to their final destination in the main square, the Plaza of Obradoiro. Tourist and devotees alike line up for the chance to hug the statue of St. James, who is reputed to be the brother of Jesus. Pilgrims of every age, nationality and religious persuasion converge on Santiago, and it is traditional for the first several travelers to have breakfast at the famed “Reyes de los Católicos” Parador right on the main square by the church. You enter the cathedral through the “Portico de la Gloria” designed by Maestro Mateo-a brilliant 12th century sculptor and artist. If you can, try to arrange your visit so that you can see the “botafumeiro,” a huge incense burner swung through the church by eight men!

This Parador is one of the most famous in all of Spain. Originally a monastery, rooms can be small, but the front rooms are gorgeous with lovely views of the cathedral. The AC Hotels have opened a magnificent property down the hill, with a swimming pool and sauna. Modern in design, it is a ten minute walk from the city center and hence much quieter. While the Parador is by far the more famous, I find the service lackluster.

Santiago’s location is in Galicia, in far northwestern Spain and due north of Portugal. Here the frigid waters of the Atlantic offer an astounding variety of shellfish-barnacles, (percebes), she crab, oysters…….virtually any type of crustacean one can imagine, and several completely unique! Fish is plentiful and extremely fresh-the ubiquitous cod, but a wide variety of fish soups, stews, and grilled items are popular. (www.galiciaguide.com) Since this is a lively university town, the price range runs from high end to budget student coffee houses with internet access…………Some of the better seafood restaurants (marisquerias) include A Barrola I and A Barrola II, owned by the same family and right off the plaza.

It is also the birth place of the famed Albarino white wine-largely unknown in the US; it is best compared to a fresh combination of dry Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, and a perfect accompaniment to the local dishes of Galicia. Wine shops will carry this varietal, in addition to many Galician canned specialties like tuna and octopus. Be sure to visit the local street market-you can find nails, flowers, aprons, souvenirs, everything from soup to nuts!

Dessert is not forgotten-the almond cake of Santiago is a popular souvenir item, and delicious for a snack or with coffee. “Teta” (tit) cheese is a local delicacy, done in the shape of-you guessed it-a woman’s breast.

From Santiago, you can voyage to La Coruna, an hours drive. Be sure to visit the fabulous restaurant downtown called Pardo, on Novoa Santos 15. La Coruna is famed for its’ magnificent windows called miradors that front the port on Avenida de la Marina. There is a fabulous lighthouse (faro) there, one of the oldest in the world. And a great promenade and beach-even waves to surf! Wetsuits are needed, of course………

Archaeology buffs will be entranced by the Roman walls of Lugo. A charming city one hour distant from Santiago, it is encased by beautifully preserved Roman engineered walls. Nearby there is also a church called St. Eulalia de Bo´veda with Pre-Christian ruins in the basement-an evocative reminder that past civilizations built their house of worship on pre-existing structures.

Renting a car is a wonderful way to see the gorgeous coastal areas of Galicia and the surrounding countryside. There are a number of rental agencies in the area, catering to both budget and upscale groups and individuals. Traveling south from Santiago by one hour and a half, visitors will be charmed by the seaside town of Bayona, home of one of the most magnificent paradors (government owned historic inns) with a panoramic view of the sea and harbor. (www.parador.es) It is here that Columbus’ ship returned, and Spain first learned of the “New World!” Definitely worth a stay……….all up and down that coast on the way to Portugal are a delightful variety of holiday destinations-Cambosa with its unique bee hive shaped houses, Isla de la Toja with a gorgeously opulent turn of the century resort hotel, Gran Hotel Hesperia La Toja. (www.granhotelhesperia-latoja.com)………..This is the area of the Rias Bajas, spectacular rivers cut into the seaside.

Santiago will not satisfy those in search of nightlife and shopping, as it is a quieter contemplative and historically significant environment. Madrid and Barcelona are better choices for those two endeavors.

The province of Galicia enjoys a temperate, albeit rainy climate similar to the Pacific Northwest. For this reason it is preferable to hike in spring or fall when rainfall is less heavy. Summers are warm, but not as hot as southern Spain.

Santiago de Compostela is easily accessed by air from Madrid. There are several flights per day serviced by Spanair for as low as $75 (current exchange rate) roundtrip! The train takes longer-overnight, in fact! Since it is in the far northwest, traveling to and from this region takes a bit longer than to other parts of Spain.

Galician is a predominant dialect spoken in that area. It is a combination, more or less, of Spanish and Portuguese. English is widely spoken, but you maybe occasionally confused by the Galician accent when speaking Spanish!

I visited Santiago in April of 2006, in time for the Semana Santa (Easter) festivities. I stayed there a week, in addition to time spent in Madrid with Abercrombie and Kent’s head guide Simon Butler-Madden and the team from Made for Spain, Alonso Alvarez de Toledo and Virginia Irurita. (Virginia@madeforspain.com)

 

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